Tank Slap - Motorcycle Forum

Seems to effect new bikes, including mine. I doubt mine is an issue as it does not see wet and salty roads.

Toying with the idea of ordering some SBS pads as back up in case Brembo start running out of stock.

https://www.rideapart.com/articles/4195 ... p5WA3qvi-s" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I recently bought some SC pads from an Italian supplier.

I've emailed him to see if the pads I purchased are effected?

I can confirm that I preferred SBS RS to whatever Brembo pads were in the KTM GT..

Stonesie wrote:I can confirm that I preferred SBS RS to whatever Brembo pads were in the KTM GT..

To be fair its not a like for like comparison.

The OEM Brembo pads were probably SA compound which is comparable to SBS compound HF.

The SBS RS pads you have are a high spec road pad comparable to Brembo SC pads.

I agree the SBS RS pads are very good but the Brembo SC are a better imo, although there no where near twice as good which the price is.

SBS RS pads are the best bang for buck road pad on the market at the moment imo.

I preferred kwackys long term favourite the Bendix MRR but there no longer available. Its suggested Bendix MRR and SBS RS are the same pad but imo there not. I've ridden both and the MRR are noticeably better imo.

New pads was on my list until Covid appeared. Mine need a little more initial bite.

Cant fault the SBS pads, used on the BM for years, but more of a good yard stick is on the track bike, they dont seem to fade, even when bloody hot....!!
And work all the way down to the metal

I've searched many times for data on SBS RS pads coefficient of friction but never been successful.

Would be good data for a comparison with the Brembo SC pad, which imo is the bench mark fast road pad, as every other comparison is purely subjective.

Frankie wrote:Cant fault the SBS pads, used on the BM for years, but more of a good yard stick is on the track bike, they dont seem to fade, even when bloody hot....!!
And work all the way down to the metal

Do they?

Apparently they are the best pad for stoppies

I cant see the need other than OEM pads for the road,track yes

Its personal preference Perks

No doubt OEM pads have all the stopping power you need on the road and probably on track for most mortals tbh.

For me my personal preference is I like a firm initial bite which I've never obtained with OEM pads. Its a feel thing, rather than a performance advantage for me.

Blade wrote:Its personal preference Perks

No doubt OEM pads have all the stopping power you need on the road and probably on track for most mortals tbh.

For me my personal preference is I like a firm initial bite which I've never obtained with OEM pads. Its a feel thing, rather than a performance advantage for me.

Same for me, the standard pads on the MT-10 had such a soft initial / cold bite that they are most peoples first mod, they give a very numb or wooden feel until they get some heat.
When you're just bimbling along and have an unexpected moment like wildlife popping out of a hedgerow you get an "Oh SHIT!" when the brakes take a moment to react... In my case it was a deer and it just got out of the way. It had EBC EPFA's by the time Kwacky rode it.

Likewise. I prefer a strong initial bite.

Progressive braking is for the weak

Blade wrote:Its personal preference Perks

No doubt OEM pads have all the stopping power you need on the road and probably on track for most mortals tbh.

For me my personal preference is I like a firm initial bite which I've never obtained with OEM pads. Its a feel thing, rather than a performance advantage for me.

OEM pads are usually shite on track they glaze and fade quickly ,you shouldn't change compounds on the same discs either but most people ignore that fact

When I ve fitted a different pad I've always emery papered the discs and then allowed the new pads a 100 miles of progressive braking to bed in and had no issues.

When I've experienced fade on track it has been due to using a basic spec Dot4 brake fluid. Since then I've always used Motul RBF660 road and track and had no issues. The wet and dry boiling point is significantly higher than standard Dot4. Mega cheap but effective mod to keep your brakes fade free.

I'm too skilled to need brakes. Perfect line every time.

Haha Cookie we live in awe

TBH I don't use the brakes too much on the road but its not due to any talent. On a few occasions I've had people tell me my brake light is broke. Its not, its just I tend to read the road and roll off and use engine braking alot on corner entry when road riding.

Blade wrote:When I ve fitted a different pad I've always emery papered the discs and then allowed the new pads a 100 miles of progressive braking to bed in and had no issues.

When I've experienced fade on track it has been due to using a basic spec Dot4 brake fluid. Since then I've always used Motul RBF660 road and track and had no issues. The wet and dry boiling point is significantly higher than standard Dot4. Mega cheap but effective mod to keep your brakes fade free.

Motul RBF660 is very good but needs changing more often ,I prefer progressive brakes rather than grabby brakes but i think that comes from years of cycling
I was given a passenger lap around lemans driven by a 24 hour racer in a Carrera GT it wasnt the acceleration that did my brain it was the braking
They brake late and brutally hard ,I kept thinking now way are we going to make this corner then bam smash the brakes
I had a bit of tuition by niall Mackenzie at donnington ,he told me less corner speed and more harder later braking but I was still shit

Blade wrote:Haha Cookie we live in awe

TBH I don't use the brakes too much on the road but its not due to any talent. On a few occasions I've had people tell me my brake light is broke. Its not, its just I tend to read the road and roll off and use engine braking alot on corner entry when road riding.

You own a ducati it probably is

Perkles wrote:

Blade wrote:When I ve fitted a different pad I've always emery papered the discs and then allowed the new pads a 100 miles of progressive braking to bed in and had no issues.

When I've experienced fade on track it has been due to using a basic spec Dot4 brake fluid. Since then I've always used Motul RBF660 road and track and had no issues. The wet and dry boiling point is significantly higher than standard Dot4. Mega cheap but effective mod to keep your brakes fade free.

Motul RBF660 is very good but needs changing more often ,I prefer progressive brakes rather than grabby brakes but i think that comes from years of cycling
I was given a passenger lap around lemans driven by a 24 hour racer in a Carrera GT it wasnt the acceleration that did my brain it was the braking
They brake late and brutally hard ,I kept thinking now way are we going to make this corner then bam smash the brakes
I had a bit of tuition by niall Mackenzie at donnington ,he told me less corner speed and more harder later braking but I was still shit

Yeah definitely the quickest way round a track but I'm shit on the brakes which will go a long way to explaining my sh1t slow pace

As Porsche man I'm sure you already know this Perks, but Porsche pride themselves that there cars can stop from 60 quicker than they can accelerate to 60