Sorry for late reply Frankie, I'm in work today. Interesting read as I always like the technical side of suspension.
If it's of any use I usually start with setting the static and rider sag. If you cant get both in the required range you need to look at weaker or stronger springs, but weighing the typical design weight of 80kg in riding kit I'm normally good with spring rate tbh.
As a rule of thumb for road use, aim to use 1/3 of the total suspension free travel as rider sag as this will get the geometry in the ball park of manufacturers design specification and allow the suspension adequate travel to extend on bumpy roads and provide good grip and a good ride. If you need to make adjustments to achieve the setting its preload you adjust here. You can tweak geometry from here to adapt the bike to any negative handling traits you may experience later, we've just set a good base setting for geometry.
The next think to do is set the rebound damping and this can also be done in the comfort of the garage to get a good base setting. Aim to compress the spring and for it to return to its rest postion from the compressed postion in a controlled uniform manor taking approximately 1 second duration. Again you can tweak to adapt the bike to any negative handling traits you may experience later, but its a good starting point.
Next is time to set the compression damping. I always start with manufacturer base setting here and my aim is to have it as soft as possible to gain maximum grip, so you could increase or decrease damping basically depending on what you experience when riding. Obviously its a compromise here as you have to have enough compression damping to control the spring during weight transfer and lateral loads as well as provide maximum grip.
Always trial and error but with a good base setting you have some where to start from. Never use internet settings, as they are specific to an individual rider and his riding style and pace. Suspension is individual and also a compromise so you have to see it as a dynamic entity and find what works for you.
My understanding of the Sachs electronic suspension on BMW bikes is its fully active in that it use telemetry feed back to react to real time conditions. This sounds perfection, but where people like Maxton will tell you it fails is it's obviously built to a price and it suffers in reacting quicker enough, to the first event before being required to react to the second event which is happening in milliseconds.
Where the Ohlins kit differs on Yamaha and Ducati bikes is its semi active. This basically means it is not reacting to real time loads its using algorithms to control the suspension damping rates. Basically the software receives information to say the bike is at a certain pitch, yaw and lean angle, with X amount of throttle, wheel speed differential, Y brake pressure, Z revs and gear #, etc..... it then uses these parameters to say ok we need to have this damping setting. I've used the Ohlins semi active on my zx10r and it was amazing. If you speak to suspension tuners most if not all will say the Ohlins semi active is superior to the Sachs fully active suspension as the Sachs cannot react quickly enough, but on paper the technology of fully active suspension should be better than semi active. Ohlins is now on version 2 of their software which is supposedly a big leap from version 1 which is what I was using on a zx10r.
Hope the info is useful and enjoy playing around and finding your own individual set up.
Remembered to write all you changes down (a short pencil is better than a long memory
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) and dont be afraid to go the wrong way. It's good to know what's wrong to reinforce where the right position is.