What the duck have I done to my bike?

Post by **Blade** » 25 May 2016, 12:39

As kiwi says go in the combustion chamber via the spark plug with the inspection camera.

Regards oil if there is no debris or foreign objects absolutely no reason imo why I wouldn't put it back in. Why pour £50 down the drain ?

You can get funnels with fine mesh to filter the oil and you could decant from one clean container to another and then check the mesh for any debris as a check before putting back in the engine.

Post by **Blade** » 25 May 2016, 12:40

Sent a link of the funnel via whatsapp Andy.

Only 99p

Post by **duke63** » 26 May 2016, 09:00

Get one of these from Halfords for the oil. You can seal it up and its easier to pour afterwards. Handy to have every oil change.

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... GwodS58Nzw" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Post by **Kwacky** » 26 May 2016, 09:02

That's what I use. They've very good,.

Post by **DaytonAndy** » 26 May 2016, 11:57

I had one! Went to the tip and left it pouring while I dumped some other stuff and then drove off without it. FML!

Post by **StMarks** » 31 May 2016, 20:29

Any progress Andy.?

Post by **DaytonAndy** » 01 Jun 2016, 08:23

Not really unfortunately thanks for asking. Bought a Bluetooth odb2 reader to see if there are any fault codes but it doesn't seem to work and a cheap boroscope type camera which when I insert it down the spark plug hole I can't turn it round it just points downwards

Should have a few hours free on Friday to have a poke at it so hopefully more news then.
I've been thinking about our earlier discussion about which gear to use to turn the engine over though and I think 6th would be easier! In higher gears each turn of the engine would have to turn the wheel more times so turning the wheel once would turn the engine only a fraction. I'm not explaining that very well but think that's right?

Post by **Perkles** » 01 Jun 2016, 08:26

can your bike use tune ecu Andy it can read fault codes ,I have a cable for it if you want me to post it to you

Post by **DaytonAndy** » 01 Jun 2016, 08:42

Thanks for the offer Perkles but AFAIK you have to use the bluetooth reader for the 2013 onwards. Something to do with EU rules saying the ecu must be locked down so it can't be written to. I have tune ecu and a cable which i used on my old bike but the tune ecu site says you need to use the Bluetooth reader.

Post by **StMarks** » 01 Jun 2016, 19:11

DaytonAndy wrote:....I've been thinking about our earlier discussion about which gear to use to turn the engine over though and I think 6th would be easier! In higher gears each turn of the engine would have to turn the wheel more times so turning the wheel once would turn the engine only a fraction. I'm not explaining that very well but think that's right?

Umm, on reflection I believe you are indeed correct Andy. Very sorry for not thinking it through properly.

Post by **DaytonAndy** » 03 Jun 2016, 11:49

Thought I was getting somewhere for a second. Managed to get the OBD code reader working and got three fault codes for the ignition circuit on all three coils. Then I looked down and remembered I'd pulled the plugs

Post by **DaytonAndy** » 03 Jun 2016, 12:45

After a great suggestion from Blade, I've now managed to get my engine turning. I still can't turn it using the rear wheel but I can turn it using the front sprocket and a breaker bar (in 6th gear

). As I turn the engine I can hear a faint 'tink' that sounds like it might be the cause of the rattling noise in the video. Just off to borrow a second pair of ears to see if I can narrow down where it's coming from...

Post by **Blade** » 03 Jun 2016, 14:51

Andy get down to a local motor traders and pick up a cheap mechanics stethoscope. Great but of kit for what you need.

Post by **DaytonAndy** » 17 Jun 2016, 15:41

OK a bit of progress at last. I've had the crank and rocker covers off and I can see what was causing the noise at last. It's the cam chain tensioner. I think what's happened is when the bike was lay on its side and it revved its tits off the cam chain tensioner has starved itself of oil and so wasn't tensioning. I think the cam tensioner works through oil pressure. If anyone knows this for a fact please sing out! I think the rattling noise was the tensioner ratcheting tight as the engine span and then clacking out again leaving the chain loose. I need to order a new gasket and then put it back together and hopefully when oil works it's way round the galleries to the tensioner it should quieten down.

Post by **Kwacky** » 17 Jun 2016, 16:42

It'll be good news if that's all it is. I take it there's no sign of damage anywhere?

Post by **DaytonAndy** » 17 Jun 2016, 18:02

The engine seems to be turning freely and I can't see or hear anything else nasty. I also have no idea why it was so sluggish to turn over. I'll re check the battery when it's back together. I'm just checking the valve clearances while I'm in there but I'm hopeful there's actually nothing much wrong with it!

Post by **kiwikrasher** » 17 Jun 2016, 18:13

GOOD NEWS!

Post by **duke63** » 17 Jun 2016, 19:17

This sound familiar?

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVWuY2qhfu0[/video]

Post by **Blade** » 17 Jun 2016, 19:34

Not saying it isn't the CCT as not seen it but they don't work on oil pressure and they don't ratchet in and out.

They have a small spring putting the CCT plunger under spring tension. As the timing chain wears the the spring tension is enough to push the plunge out one more ratchet. Once pushed out it won't retract unless physically reset manually by removal. Easy to get off and reset in 20 minutes and any good manual should explain the procedure in detail.

You also wouldn't here a tensioner ratcheting out. It makes one tiny movement forwards of about 0.5mm to take up any wear and is silent. I know as I have had many apart as there a known weak point on alot of bikes especially Kawasaki's for some reason. Any noise from the CCT area won't be the CCT itself imo but the timing chain slapping around.

Sorry hope I'm not giving you bad news but I'm thinking your better off correctly informed and that's how I would prefer it if it was me so hopeful it's helpful.

Really hope there is nothing wrong and the above explanation is useful and helpful.

Good luck mate and if I can help further please just ask.

Post by **Blade** » 17 Jun 2016, 19:46

duke63 wrote:This sound familiar?

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVWuY2qhfu0[/video]

That noise is the incorrectly tensioned timing chain slapping around as the ratchet in the CCT is seized or the spring too weak but whatever the reason the CCT plunger is not moving outwards to tension the timing chain correctly.

If he keeps reving it, it could jump a tooth or fail completely and have a valve meet piston interface so best thing is take 20 minutes to pop it off and reset the CCT. No need to replace if you can get it out and free it all up again and get it moving freely just pop the original back in.

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