Tank Slap - Motorcycle Forum

Well that's interesting. According to that article, standard for mine is 17/40

Just checked my bike and it's got 16/39
So it's gone down 1 front and back

So I reckon if I leave the front and go 41 or 42 on the back I should get the change I want. And I'll stick to the 525. Wonder if I could source a sprocket in next 2 days? Track day is Tuesday and Monday is Lissie's birthday on Monday.

Its the July issue kiwi.

Try this email mate should be very helpful.

http://www.gearingcommander.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Any use kiwi?

kiwikrasher wrote: It's just not the same reading it digital.

Agreed, plus I've got nowhere to put my iPad down while I wipe my arse

Get the kids to hold it whilst you read it Monty

Feck off, I go in there to hide from the kids! Only place I get any peace!

Your lucky Monty mine follow me in and need chasing out

Well, I'm glad someone else is getting something out of this thread. After much deliberation I've decided that the chain can wait until the bike is due it's first MOT a bit later in the year.

I'll work on the top half of the bike for now, the lower half can wait until later.

What are the plans for the top itchy ?

Nothing drastic, obviously I have the levers and mirrors now,

I'm also going to get some black cable tension adjusters to get rid of the silver standard ones.

Maybe a headlight cover, just looking at those now.

Possibly a front brake reservoir (but that's low on the list).

That should probably be it until I hit the bottom with...

New chain and sprockets

Thinking about powdercoating the wheels black.

Rearsets, or at least heel guards (or heel guard protectors).



And hopefully that should be it, but then a friend of mine asked me to like his business page on Facebook. I looked on the full website and bugger me if it's not chock full of carbon goodness.

http://www.zero-limits.co.uk/default.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'm not sure I'll ever be finished!

Oh, forgot, maybe new brake lines!

They do some nice stuff at zero limits. If he's a mate maybe you could talk him into doing you a good deal on some carbon bling.

Well on the Kawasaki forum I've had replies from 2 people. 16/41 and 15/40. Both A graders and regulars at EC that have owned the same gen but are on gen 4's now. The second has about 20 kgs on me, first guy is my size and weight. The 15/40 setup he runs a gear lower in all the corners. Surprised he doesn't run out of legs on the straight? Think I'll set the cam up on the rev counter for a session then do some calc's from good data.

Blade wrote:Common misconception that a 520 chain saves a big chunk of weight. Its saves next to nothing if you look at the difference in chain weight per metre.

It saves hardly any weight at standstill, but that's not the point.
A large amount of rotational mass is saved by small weight savings on.....well.....rotating parts. Particularly helpful when needing to change direction quickly.

Although I agree saving small increments of weight from the unsprung mass have a big effect I disagree in this instance and imo saving about 150 grams (the saving is this small) from the drive chain centreline won't have any real effect.

Did you realise you can save 0.5 kg on the front and 0.9 kg on the rear wheel just by picking a different tyre and there just ordinary tyres nothing special. Look at the weight difference between a Dunlop Gp racer and pirelli Rosso corsa to highlight the case, but its not limited to these two tyres. The added bonus is this weight saving is at the largest radius of the unsprung mass so has a huge difference which is noticeable even on road riding and is like fitting expensive forged wheels for a fraction of the cost and its money you would spend anyway.

Small weight savings can make a big difference but position as well as weight have a big effect. Weight saved at the front wheel will have the biggest effect in turn in speed.

The main benefit in a 520 chain as far as I'm aware is not the weight saving but reduced power losses in the drive chain so more bhp reaches the rear hoop. Due to the very small amount of actual weight saved and the position of weight saved in a chain its almost irrelevant.

I agree with your comments Blade. The question is that, if you were to change your chain and sprockets anyway, why wouldn't you take advantage of the (possibly small) gains at the same time and fit a 520 kit?
In my experience, it opens up a wider choice of sprocket sizes. Whatsmore, 520 chains can be bought from motor cross outlets for a fraction of the cost of those from a road bike outlet.

Good points roadrace I was thinking the 530 OEM chain would last much much longer than a 520 but if the 520 is cheaper maybe it will even out in the end.

I'll stick to the 525, just bring the harmony back

Last time I give you any advice kiwi .....