Tank Slap - Motorcycle Forum

It's not an ECU fault is it?

I ve done all the checks stipulated in the manual for the ECU and no issues.

Completely fooked off tbh.

When I get time QS will be removed (currently disconnected only)

If that doesn't fix things it going back to kawasski but tbh not sure what they can check that I haven't already as I have the factory manual.

Basically if it's not fixed asap it will be sold or beaten into a million pieces just for the satisfaction of destroyimg the pile of shit.

I'm still fooked from 2 hours pushing the **** thing in black 1 piece leathers in the midday 32 Degree sun trying to get a phone signal to ring recovery

I'm not technical, all I could think of after your investigations was a false single from the ECU

Thanks Kwacky. Tbh I'm going to walk away from it for a while as I'm completely hacked off with it and it's starting to get me down. It's a piece of metal at the end of the day so don't want that to happen, therefore best just to walk away for a while I think.

Get out on the SP2 and wake up the countryside.

Yeah I might do mate. Cheers

Tbh I'm away soon so thinking just enjoy some time with my family. It's sunny here today so going to go for a drive with missus and get some lunch to cheer myself up

sorry your having problems. hope you get it sorted

I'd put money on it being the QS. Hope it gets sorted soon, blade.

I know a few have fitted them to Multis and have had strange errors appear on the dash.

Meanwhile.

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Quickshitter is now off. It's either fixed or totally proper fooked

Wish me look

Cane it

It is now technically classified as proper fooked

Bu66er! What happened?

SYMPTONS

1. Bike cuts out after riding in traffic and engine has become hot. When engine cuts out the FI symbol illuminates on the dash and the on-board Kawasaki Self Diagnosis Software shows code 31 which is for the Vehicle Down Sensor.
2. NO conclusive information has been obtained at a specific coolant temperature the fault occurs but evidence has proven the engine is always hot with a coolant temperature above 93 degrees C.
3. Same fault has been re occurring for 8 weeks and has probably occurred at least 30 times
4. Bike runs fine in all conditions except slow moving traffic with high coolant temperature.
5. Tried to replicate the symptoms and found bike will run on idle for 30 minutes with very high coolant temps between 95 and 105 Degrees with NO problems or fault codes logging and have proved this on 3 separate occasions.
6. For the fault to occur bike HAS to be run for a few miles and allowed to get hot. As comment No.4 above, the bike will not have the fault occur if left to get hot on idle only. Bike MUST be ridden and hot for error to occur. Could this suggest electrics are getting hot when under load (i.e. drawing a current) with the addition of high coolant temperature and the resistance is changing and this is having an effect which allows the fault to occur and the bike to cut out?
7. Cutting out problem is much more frequent in high ambient temperatures so feel confident high temperature is one of the primary causes.
8. On virtually all occurrences of the fault the vehicle has been stationary at traffic lights with hot coolant temperature. The vehicle has never cut out during normal riding conditions (engine at average temperature) and if it was a faulty Vehicle Down Sensor it could happen at any time not just on a closed throttle and when stationary. One exception to this statement has happened. When trying to replicate the fault the bike has cut out when hot and riding at approx. 5-10 MPH (Very small throttle opening) around a housing estate trying to replicate the fault.
9. If allowed to cool the FI symbol (Code 31 Vehicle Down Sensor) will go out on the dash. If it was a genuine issue with the vehicle down sensor, then this should not occur until the bike is up righted and the ignition turned on and off to reset the Vehicle Sensor Down (Code 31) fault. This in conjunction with successful testing of the Vehicle Down Sensor plus the replacement of the sensor for a brand new factory supplied sensor suggest to me the Code 31 logging on the on-board Kawasaki Self Diagnosis Software is a red herring and misleading.
10. Vehicle Down Sensor has been replaced for Brand New Item under warranty by Kawasaki and fault is still occurring and logging as code 31 Vehicle Down Sensor.

CHECKS

1. Spark Plugs changed for brand new items and originals checked for signs of running rich, lean, excessively hot or oily. No faults found. Plug condition suggests perfect AFR.
2. Air filter replaced as a precaution mainly for elimination purposes.
3. Battery checked and holding a charge and charging system working correctly. All voltages within specification of a new battery.
4. Vehicle Down Sensor Input voltage within range at 5 volts,
5. Vehicle Down Sensor Output voltage. I cannot get a reading so suspect Kawasaki Maintenance Manual describes incorrectly the procedure for checking such. Tried this on friend’s identical trouble free 2012 ZX10R and using the same procedure no output voltage could be established. Confident error in measuring Output voltage is due to incorrect procedure as my bike shouldn’t run without a healthy return voltage from the Vehicle Down Sensor but it does. Plus identical issues of no output voltage found on friends trouble free 2012 ZX10r suggest procedure for checking such is the cause for no voltage being recorded and not a hardware issue with the sensor.
6. Vehicle down sensor has been checked for operation by titling to greater than 70 degrees as described for a function test in the Kawasaki manual and works perfectly as would be expected.
7. Continuity checked between main harness and ECU as per Kawasaki OEM Maintenance Manual specified procedure. No fault found.
8. ECU checked for ground and healthy Power Supply as per Kawasaki OEM Maintenance Manual specified procedure. No fault found.
9. ECU and Vehicle Down Sensor checked for bent or broken pins and no faults found.
10. Main wiring Harness / Loom checked for damage. No faults found.
11. Quickshifter removed on Kawasaki UK’s instructions in case this was causing the issue. QS removed and no change. The fault still occurs as per symptoms described above.
12. Vehicle Down Sensor replaced with NO change and fault still occurring. Bike cutting out when hot and Code 31 (Vehicle Down Sensor Fault) the on-board Kawasaki Self Diagnosis Software being displayed.

That's not good at all

So is there going to be a new bike in the near future ?

Tbh Mick as attractive as that sounds right now, I need to get this one fixed to sell it.

I have followed a logical process of fault finding with ZERO success and it's really baffling me.

Think it's time to give to the experts but bugging me it's going to be something stupid and basic.

Also worries me I have followed all the checks listed in the manual.

I don't see what more kawasaki can do tbh.

I'm worried this will be one of them problems which never gets fixed and keeps going back to the dealers only for a solution to be tried and then fail and the loop keep repeating itself which can often be the case with random intermittent faults.

If the fault never gets found or rectified, just make a massive stink. letters/emails etc demanding that they need to replace the bike or every part until the bike is fixed. If under warranty you should have every right to demand this. You could argue that it creates a dangerous situation. Cutting out on busy roads.

When the bike gets hot does the fan come on?