Tank Slap - Motorcycle Forum

You could disconnect the negative wire and see if it works. You've still got the obvious problem that if it's a loose connection, it's still going to be loose though! I'd be tempted to just buy the sensor myself and get out for a ride. Like you say, biking season is short enough!

I wonder if that's the reason Kwak UK want the QS removed, because they've seen them cause problems before? I'm guessing that they're not interested in which QS is on there, just the fact that there's one installed.

Exactly that Kwacky.

I did ask if they had records of QS causing issues and they said a few but wouldn't say which specific brand.

duke63 wrote:Some advice here.

http://www.motoforum.net/topic/122308-b ... lt-sensor/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

have you moved the sensor at any point?

No never moved Duke. I need to triple check all connections again tbh.

It could be complete coincidence but the intermittent fault has only exsisted since installing the QS however the operation of the QS is faultless and the cables don't run near the oem loom as the manual warns about electrical interference.

I would check the side stand switch too. It may have been nudged whilst installing the QS.

Good shout Duke but already checked that.

Thanks though as very good shout.

Tried to replicate the conditions today by driving round my estate for the 15 minutes with the engine running hot and plenty of stop starts to see if I could get to fault to reappear with no success.

I've now driven approx 80 miles fault free and the only thing I've done is unplug the vehicle down sensor and then plug it back in. Therefore possibly it was as simple as a bad connection and is now fixed but I'm not convinced tbh as I have never been near the sensor previously so can't understand why it would have developed a bad connection if not disturbed.

Spoke with Translogic about the QS being the possible cause and they didn't think it was but were extremely helpful and also said if I did find out the cause get back to them so they can log the info in case other people's ring up with a similar issue which helped convince me they weren't just fobbing me off when they said it's unlikely to be their QS.

Also if it was thr QS you could expect the fault code to come up for the coils not the vehicle down sensor.

It's either fixed or the saga continues

Any suggestions ?

Fingers crossed it's sorted.

The only common problem I know about with the ZX10R is the fuel line from the pump getting kinked. This problem is usually noticed under full load though as the kink is a weakness and the 'vacuum' causes the fuel line to close.

I don't imagine it would cause your symptoms but it might be worth lifting the tank to check. You could put a spring over the fuel line to help it stop it kinking too

buy a ducati

go find some roundabouts and get it lent over :-P see if it comes back

rocket wrote:go find some roundabouts and get it lent over :-P see if it comes back

Tbh that's the last place I want to find out if my engine cuts out but in fairness it has always been when stationary and with a hot engine which may or may not be a red herring.

Perkles wrote:buy a ducati

I need to get it fixed first but I would be tempted by an RSV4 and need to get a test ride on a 1299s also.

Blade wrote:

rocket wrote:go find some roundabouts and get it lent over :-P see if it comes back

Tbh that's the last place I want to find out if my engine cuts out but in fairness it has always been when stationary and with a hot engine which may or may not be a red herring.

it wont cut unless you shut the throttle and it goes to idle.

I m not sure thats correct Rocket Won't it just cut out if the sensor is activated regardless of throttle position. If it didn't then a bike could crash, be lie on its side and be red lining if the throttle had stuck open.

Does anybody else know ? As genuinely not sure.

Pretty sure I have made some good progress on this today.

After yesterday's trials proved fruitless I started to think my earlier theory of heat breaking the sensor down as unlikely so thought I would do some electrical tests.

Made a little loom and connected up my Fluke and checked the input voltage first which was reading correctly. If that's the case it suggest checking the output voltage when the vehicle down sensor is both upright and cranked over more than 70 degrees.

The output voltage wasn't there it just read zero volts. This didn't make sense as a low output voltage activates the sensor so I plugged it all back in and fired the bike up to see if it ran which it did and was at odds with the failed output voltage test. I now suspected a bad connection some where and found the central pin on the sensor very wobbly. I compared it to the other to pins which were rigid and didn't wiggle. I then gave the central pin another little wiggle to check it was definitely looser than the others and it snapped clean off.

I m now pretty sure the central pin was very loose and the cause of the random intermittent fault. Vibration must have been breaking the pin down.

I'll ring kawasaki on Monday and discuss a warranty claim but I suspect they will want there Technician to do the test and possibly suggest that I broke the central pin doing my own tests and therefore a warranty claim is not possible. I hope my synical attuide is wrong but I can see where they have room to wriggle out and blame me but as it was logged at the dealers with having 3 activations of the vehicle down sensor fault I hope not.

I would speak to the dealer first and see if they will put a claim through bearing in mind they tested for the fault and know what the fault code was pointing towards.

I will ring them on Monday Duke. I made a call today but the lad I have been dealing with wasn't in unfortunately.

So is it back to square one?

Yes unfortunately

It's still throwing code 31 for vehicle down sensor but isn't this for sure. Too long to explain but 10000000% not the vehicle down sensor.